MobShopBlog

fashion’s reckoning

with 4 comments

By Neilah Meyers

Kinetic versus static, transgressive versus successive, the sublime versus the beautiful are distinctions that appear in any deconstructive analysis of an art form. There exists a reckoning in the fashion world regarding integrity of design and point of inspiration where the innovation of past trends are paramount. A vintage piece, for example, cannot simply be reconstructed but must be reinvented in its execution: whether translated through a new print, altering of the silhouette, or augmenting the piece in some distinguishable way; it must represent a new signature.

Some facets of this progression become iconic… its presence within a collection or individual piece invokes a definitive approach that the designer utilizes for a greater effect. To illustrate this point, the use of the stud proves an interesting evaluation. By examining the literal elements of the creative process (i.e. the materials used to compose the work) it can often illuminate parts of the process critical to the overall success of a piece.

The following briefly examines the progression, appropriation and the most outstanding implementations of the stud within contemporary collections. Also,  how innovative executions of this design detail has found its niche in both high-end and mass culture aesthetics alike.

Hermes has integrated the stud in “The Cuff” and “Medor watch,” permanent collection pieces that are among the most popular and identifiable accessories of the design house. Burberry brought it home with their creation on the studded jacket from in their A/W 08 collection: The exaggerated proportion and liberal application created a bold and stunning interpretation. The stud also begs for its Punk presence, the iconic detail seen (everywhere) embellishing every possible surface area on belts and leather jackets. But if innovation remains the emphasis here, the custom tuxedo jacket  by Victor & Rolf (seen below) takes the cake.

The lapel is a literal, three dimensional representation of the stud, flawlessly constructed from bonded silk against wool. The collection as a whole beautifully maintained its direction: Pieces that deceptively allude to three-dimensional shapes, as well as sculptural pieces that define the designer’s inherent style and undeniable talent.

But the interesting evolution of this design principle, extends even further in the context of its successful execution in the realm of mass production. The stud, when done right, is timeless; and now thanks to the internet, exposure to high-end design and immediacy of online outlets, allows consumers to search for the pieces that excite their sensibilities and still maintain the integrity of great design. No longer can a store entice on low price-points alone, but now must hold themselves to a higher standard in what they represent, while simultaneously being as competitive with the high-end deals on Ebay or Zara’s lightening turn-around of this seasons dominant trends.

“When masses can consume [great designs] that are made well it’s a positive: Great design should not be limited to one socioeconomic status and most importantly, it doesn’t have to be. The positive effects go even further here as it keeps designers on their toes to create true works of art – that can’t be so easily replicated because they are such a unique representation of their individual talent.”

This “egalitarian” approach to fashion has become the mark of the true innovators and talent in the industry, those who embrace the contemporaneity of the industry in which they create understand this evolution. The mainstream of fashion is no longer exclusive, but is now accessible, thanks to production conscious (i.e. cost conscious production/infrastructures) and outlets whose reputation depends on the quality of the work they represent to maintain a sophisticated and design-savvy clientele.

Stunning results of which are seen in Annie Costello Brown’s Copper Charm Necklace (an exclusive design for Des Kohan, $235) or the Wide Leather Studded Belt (MobShop $65) that take inspired and stunning execution of covet-worthy pieces to budget-conscious shoppers.

There is really no end to this tangential perspective on a very small cog in the fashion wheel –

Hopefully the montage of these great pieces, seen above, are good eye-candy and the knowledge that brilliant, innovative design has been appropriated for the fashion-obsessed, “champagne taste on a beer budget” demographic (I occupy) serves as a refreshing reality.

[collages by Mirren Gordon-Crozier]

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4 Responses

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  1. beautiful blog! love all of the collages. so cool and so intricate. i wish you all the best of luck in this exciting new endevor!

    katarinajack

    December 10, 2009 at 6:20 pm

  2. spiked lee
    brains on the
    face off the leather
    material
    the zip looks like
    reptilian

    elliott

    January 28, 2010 at 9:14 pm

  3. Nicely said Knees. Some great writing. Love the visuals. Can’t wait to see what comes of this rad sight!

    shawneta

    February 5, 2010 at 10:28 pm

  4. leather jackets can really make you look good, they also make you feel warm and comfortable ;**

    Polyethylene

    November 16, 2010 at 6:25 pm


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